A Two-day Sojourn in Brisbane: The Unexplored City's Charm

Previously, Brisbane seemed somewhat obscure to me as a short holiday destination. With the hustling urban life of Melbourne and dining paradise, Sydney's picturesque beaches, and Queensland's coastline adorned with relentless sunshine, the roaring sea, and bountiful nature, Brisbane seemed to be overlooked.

Now, you might question - What makes Brisbane stand out among other metropolises in Australia?

Surprisingly, it has a lot under its belt! Brisbane is subtly stealing Melbourne’s crown as the emerging destination with its dynamic feel and vibrancy. The city is the ideal weekend getaway - it is glorious and laid back with palatable food being served at terraced eateries that offer magnificent river views. It's home to unique standalone boutiques showcasing the creativity of talented local designers. Its quaint neighbourhoods feature cafes housed in classic Queenslanders.

One particular feature of Brisbane that can't be missed is its fantastic subtropical climate that allows the warm embrace of outdoor activities like food markets, pretty much throughout the year.

Planning a trip to this beautiful city requires careful consideration of where to stay. One can choose to pamper oneself with the comfort of the 5 star hotels in Queensland, ensuring a luxurious stay while exploring the city, or choose from a variety of options available on tophotels.com to find the perfect accommodation that fits with your comfort and budget requirements.

Let's take a virtual tour of how I unravelled the hidden gems of Brisbane within 48 hours.

Welcoming the Weekend

Checking in at 4pm, Next Hotel

I unpack my bags and settle into my home for the weekend, the newly inaugurated Next Hotel, perfectly situated amidst the bustle of the city's central mall.

Following a grand investment of $15 million in revamping efforts the previous year, the hotel is decked out with a multitude of enticing features; express check-in and check-out procedures limiting human interaction, a complimentary minibar, the luxury of using your personal phone as a room key, and the convenience of sleepy pods for those international jet-setters who land at ungodly hours and require a place to crash until their accommodations are ready, and even the provision of an iPhone for guests' usage throughout their stay (not as a takeaway souvenir, unfortunately).

Emerging as prominent food and beverage hotspots within the hotel, the first-floor Lennons Restaurant and Bar and a rooftop bar that boasts a swimming pool, offer guests an array of dining and unwinding options. However, I choose to indulge in a cup of coffee at a local hideout in the nearby laneway, the Felix Espresso. This charming establishment also serves salads and sandwiches, specifically tailoring options to the vegan palate.

The rooftop pool and bar at Next Hotel.

For alternative option to stay consider hotel Edward Lodge. At the Edward Lodge, you'll find a warm welcome in its 10 air-conditioned rooms. Many of these rooms offer modern amenities such as WiFi and a flat-screen TV with satellite channels, complemented by convenient features like a mini refrigerator and tea/coffee making facilities. Ensuring your comfort and convenience, each room is equipped with a hair dryer, free toiletries, and a well-appointed shower. Private bathrooms are equipped with both a separate toilet and a shower. If you prefer self-catering, the lodge also provides apartment-style accommodations with a fully equipped kitchen including a microwave, electric kettle, and refrigerator, giving you the flexibility to prepare your meals just the way you like them.

4.30pm, a Segway ride and Goma

To the first-time visitor, the arts precinct down by the river is a confusing, interconnected set of buildings. Am I in the library or the art gallery? The modern art gallery or the traditional? And what is this walkway that has whale noises being piped through it? WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

But once you get your bearings you could easily spend a whole day down at South Bank.

Along the river there’s a good smattering of cafes and bars with outdoor seating and activities such as Segway hire.

I’ve never been on one before. I don’t even have a driver’s licence but the guy at X-wing on the promenade doesn’t seem to mind. He hands me a helmet (he really should be handing them out to the pedestrians I’m going to knock over) and shows me how it’s done. You stand on it, tilt forward and then it zooms along the boardwalk at the speed of a motorised scooter. It’s fun. I don’t want to get off. But I must because Segways are not allowed in Goma, the modern art museum in the South Bank precinct.

The first person I see in Goma is Kevin Rudd. I try to make eye contact as I walk past him but he doesn’t look my way.

I’m here to see the Future of Beauty exhibition. There’s a real Japanese vibe to modern Brisbane. Japanese-inspired boutiques, Japanese/mod Oz fusion restaurants and, right now, the Future of Beauty exhibition at Goma which features the designs of Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto. The clothes – extraordinary works of art – are displayed on dummies and well-lit, allowing close inspection from all angles. The craftsmanship! The bravery! The art of it all!

The Future of Beauty exhibition has now closed but in keeping with the gallery’s edgy vibe, a collection of David Lynch prints, paintings and photography is now showing.

Evening Charm: The Squire at 6pm

An excellent location for an appetizer drink is the Charming Squire, found nearby to Goma. This expansive venue, highlighted by captivating wood accents, opens up onto the thoroughfare, outfitted with ample seating for larger parties. Their offerings include the unique brews of James Squire and satisfying pork sliders for those looking for a small bite. The spot comes to life on Friday evenings, abuzz with professionals seeking some downtime, including crew from the ABC office located on the opposite side of the street.

7pm: A Date with Madame Wu

Madame Wu stands out as an irresistible spot for dinner, comparable to the likes of Chin Chin and Supernormal in Melbourne, while standing out with its exceptional panoramic view of Brisbane river and the illuminated Story Bridge. This stylish restaurant specializes in putting a unique spin on Asian cuisine, offering an array of dishes designed for communal dining. As a fairly recent addition to the city's dining scene, it has quickly drawn a large and enthusiastic crowd.

When you're there, indulging in their braised beef cheeks, luxuriously tender from the rock sugar and soy preparation, teamed with a spicy black bean and chilli sauce ($35) is a must. Equally enticing is their Moreton Bay bug dumplings, perfectly balanced with XO and lime ($18).

Madame Wu offers a selection of dumplings that are an absolute culinary delight.

A Nightcap at 9pm

Upon returning to South Bank in a cab, we find ourselves right in the midst of the 'Up Late' event, hosted by GOMA in honor of their latest attraction, the Future of Beauty exhibition.

The event buzzes with the electric energy of Broken Doll, a four-piece band renowned for their vibrant performances and distinctive Harajuku-inspired fashion sense. The space buzzes with conversations, laughter, and excited discussions over the exhibits. You will spot, amongst many, a woman elegantly wearing an Akira-branded silk top, and many others exhibiting sharp, architectural black designs, showcasing the love and adoption of Japanese fashion in Brisbane.

The climate of the evening only adds to the charm, being warm but not uncomfortably humid – absolutely perfect for a 20-minute walk back to my place of stay.

It's worth noting that Brisbane's vibrant nightlife is only one part of its charm. The city has a bustling café culture, with venues such as the James Street Market offering fresh produce and gourmet foods. Another distinguishing element of Brisbane is its multitude of outdoor spaces like the South Bank Parklands, a must-visit spot for any tourist.

Saturday

8am, kayaking

“How were the beaches?” asked one friend when I returned from Brisbane. There is this idea of Queensland as being beachy but – apart from a fake beach at South Bank (which looks just like the fake beach in Darwin … ie wrong!) – it’s all about the river in Brisbane and the best way to explore it is by kayak.

It’s early morning and there’s not much traffic on the river, which is wide and brown. You have to stick close to shore, but not so close that you’d get caught in the mangrove swamps. The River Cat and smaller ferries go past but there’s plenty of room to move about. I think, if I lived in Brisbane, this would be a fine way of getting to work.

Kayaks can be rented by the hour from $20 along the river at Riverlife.

11am, city tour

Back on land, I go on a guided city tour with Brisbane Greeters – part of a worldwide network of city tour guides. The idea is that visitors are matched with locals and get an insider’s view of the city. All greeters are volunteers.

My guide, Anna, advises that the best walk in Brisbane is the city to New Farm walk, via the Botanic Gardens and the Queensland University of Technology. She also recommends walking over the Goodwill Bridge.

Forget beaches ... it’s all about the river in Brisbane and kayak is the best way to see it.

Anna is a Brisbane enthusiast and one of 200 volunteers greeters. She says visitors should book online at least three days ahead.

I purchase an all-purpose travel Go Card and Anna and I board a River Cat towards New Farm and the Brisbane Powerhouse. The trip along the river is pleasant, passing the lovely, large Moreton Bay figs and poinsiettas that line the banks and Brisbane’s waterfront properties – all new-looking and gleaming glass in the sunlight. To find some of the old weatherboard-on-stilts Queenslanders, head to the posh suburb of Ascot or see the smaller worker cottage versions in Paddington (though just because they’re smaller doesn’t make them cheap).

Midday, Powerhouse

If there’s a second arts hub in Brisbane, it’s here at the Powerhouse in New Farm, about 3km from the city centre. The former power station has been transformed into a cool events space with a bar and restaurant attached.

I lunch at Bar Alto, an Italian restaurant overlooking the river.

My Brisbane pals tell me the Powerhouse is “a bit corporate and for visitors, like the Opera Bar at the Sydney Opera House”, but it’s one of my favourite venues in Brisbane.

I return later for a poetry readings and, long after the performance is over, the bar area zings with energy. During the day the vast, industrial concretey space is a good lunch spot.

I’m dining alone but rather than being shoved at a little table down the back, I’m given a nice spacious table overlooking the water and lots of magazines to read, lest I become gloomy with existential angst after an hour in my own company.

The wine list is very good and I recommend the set lunch menu for $37 that offers two courses plus a glass of wine.

Broken Doll, known for their Harajuku-style fashion, playing at a bar at Goma at South Bank.

2.30pm, shopping in James Street

It’s a short cab ride from the Powerhouse to James Street in Fortitude Valley.

This lovely tree-lined, shady street is Brisbane’s coolest shopping area – the city’s premier designer, Easton Pearson, has a flash flagship shop here.

The precinct features a mix of more than 130 specialty shops – with a cluster of independent boutiques homewares stores and the very cute Scrumptious Reads, which stocks independent magazines from around the world and cute journals (I buy two).

Around the corner is Gail Sorronda, one of the city’s most original designers. Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld named Sorronda “one to watch” and her original designs including dresses and jewellery can be bought online. I recommend popping into her store if you’re in Brisbane.

4pm, night markets

It’s back to the hotel for a quick dip in the rooftop pool then drinks on the deck before heading out to the Eat Street Markets.

Catch a City Cat to the Hamilton Wharf where there are night food markets every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. It’s a bit of a hike from the centre of town (it’s out near the airport) but when you get there it’s as though a portable city has sprung up.

Exploring South Bank on Segway is just the beginning of your adventure.

Imagine savoring delightful dishes served by approximately 60 mini-restaurants, each housed in a snug shipping container. These food nooks offer a variety of international cuisine, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of a bustling German Christmas market, except, there's no winter chill here. Instead, the warm Queensland air welcomes you, while the twinkle of the fairytale lights strung up across the market accompany your cold beer over robust culinary conversations.

8pm, an evening in the Fortitude Valley

Your next stop is the buzzing Fortitude Valley, a quick cab ride away. A plethora of charmingly eclectic bars awaits within walking distance.

Your first encounter is with Kwan Brothers, where the enchanting flavour of 'Asian street food' coalesces with an eye-popping decor characterised by novelty toys, disco balls, and sizeable Chinese lanterns. It is a wildly vibrant experience, with groups feasting on massive bowls of Korean Fried Chicken, their laughter creating a lively backdrop.

The place beams with youthful energy, but if you seek a calmer corner, retreat to the quiet back area. Here, the cocktails are as much a delight as is the tranquil atmosphere.

Just around the corner, find yourself amidst Alfred and Constance streets, offering bars like At Sixes and Sevens a dine-in gem located in a heritage listed weatherboard cottage from 1878. It's an experience imbued with history and class.

A must-visit venue for late-night music, as suggested by local musician and Guardian Australia's Queensland correspondent, Josh Robertson, is the Triffid. This new-age music venue is managed by the ex-bassist of Powderfinger, one of Australia’s iconic rock bands. Here’s a fun fact: this band has won more Australian Recording Industry Association (ARIA) awards than any other artist apart from Silverchair and John Farnham. Every Friday, the Triffid hosts “The Friday Knockoff” – a mini music festival featuring local bands. So if you're a fan of live music, this is a stop you cannot miss.

When Sunday Comes

Brunch at 10am

Welcome the new day with an additional hour or two of sleep, setting the perfect tune for Sunday brunch. I found myself enamored by the quaint allure of Kettle and Tin, located in Paddington. It has a certain charm that deviates from the gloss and glitter of multiple Sydney eateries, having been nestled conveniently in a captivatingly historic worker's abode.

The queue may be a bit daunting, but fret not as it swiftly dissipates. What's on the dish? Well, I must praise their splendid bacon and eggs accompanied by an excellent cup of coffee. The only sour note was when I asked for a copy of the Courier-Mail and got the Australian instead. Reading a city's local paper offers unparalleled insights into its essence, hence the slight disappointment.

Shopping at Midday

Instead of setting off, I decide to further explore Paddington and its allure by indulging in some shopping. Surprisingly, a handful of the local cottages are home to unique boutiques, including Dogstar. Here, one finds a fascinating collection of Japanese-inspired designs, the creative manifestation of Brisbane's very own Japanese designer, Masayo Yasuki.

Interestingly, I chanced upon an enthusiastic American fellow-shopper surrendering to the irresistible charm of the store’s collection. She shopped with gusto, remarking to her friend, "You won't find pieces like this back in LA!"