I am a food and travel writer, captivated by Marseille ever since I moved here in 2016. With its multicultural identity, jaw-dropping beauty and strong contrasts, this port with 2600 years of history is an endless supply of stories and experiences.
The Vieux Port in Marseille. Credits Sergii Figurnyi / Shutterstock
Why go
Marseille captivates visitors with its rich variety: breathtaking natural beauty and urban grit, typical Provençal cultural traditions intersecting with others from around the world, exuberant energy and quiet pleasures. Despite being the second largest city in France, Marseille resembles a collection of the '111 villages' that have merged over the centuries to form the neighbourhoods of the modern metropolis. Each boasts its own personality and charm, ideal for curious travellers in search of diverse experiences. You can swim in turquoise bays, explore Roman ruins, admire contemporary art, trek over limestone cliffs and watch breakdancers battle it out. And, of course, taste flavours from around the world thanks to the city's fantastic gastronomic scene. More Mediterranean than French and truly unique, Marseille is everything you love about France, and so much more.
Best period
Intermediate season (April-June and September-October)
Wonderful sunny days without the scorching summer heat.
The ideal time for outdoor activities such as hiking, boating and outdoor dining.
In May there are many public holidays, June is the start of the festival season and September is the time for the 'rentrée' (the return from summer holidays).
Avoid August, when the city is swarming with tourists, the people of Marseille go on holiday and some businesses are closed.
Daily budget
Double room in a mid-range hotel: US$110-220
Dinner at a local restaurant: US$25-45
Museum admission: free-US$12
Glass of wine: US$4-7
Pint of Beer: US$4-6
Notre Dame de la Garde, Marseille. Credits kavalenkau / Shutterstock
Day one: must-sees
Morning
The most visited sites in Marseille will give you a general idea of the city, showing you its unique architecture and cultural-historical wealth. To start, wear comfortable shoes or take bus 60 to Notre Dame de la Garde. Nicknamed the 'Bonne Mère' ('Good Mother'), this Roman-Byzantine-style basilica is topped by a gilded statue of the Madonna and Child watching over the city (note the bullet holes on the eastern façade, caused by a World War II battle). Inside are beautiful mosaics, votive offerings, wooden boat offerings and nautical-themed paintings to protect fishermen at sea. Located at the highest point of the city, the Bonne Mère boasts a 360° view of the city skyline. If you are hungry, stop by Carlotta With in the trendy Vauban district for the city's most delicious croissants.
Lunch
Make your way down the hill to the Vieux-Port, where merchant ships from all over the world once moored, while today it is packed with pleasure boats. The perimeter is lovely for a stroll; if you are in a hurry, take the ferry across the basin, whose 300-metre route is said to be the shortest in the world. Overlooking the harbour, Chez Madie les Galinettes serves Provençal classics, fresh fish and the legendary Marseille bouillabaisse. However, perhaps surprisingly, the city's most popular dish is pizza. Our favourite is the one baked in the wood-fired oven at Chez Etienne, which has attracted a loyal clientele since 1943. In addition to pizza, order a portion of delicious and tasty garlic squid.
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MUCEM, Marseille. Credits Mykolastock / Shutterstock
Afternoon
Dispose of your lunch with a trip back in time by visiting Cosquer Méditerranée, a faithful reproduction of the Grotte Cosquer, one of the most interesting underwater caves in the world, housing prehistoric graffiti dating back some 27,000 years. Inaugurated in mid-2022 and housed in the Villa Méditerranée, this is the newest attraction in town. The adjacent Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (MUCEM) is another attraction not to be missed. Built in 2013 and designed by Rudy Riciotti, this embroidery-like concrete cube shows the influences of ancient Arab design. Don't worry if you don't have time to visit the exhibition inside: the outdoor walkways offer a sensational light and shadow show, while on the roof there is a restaurant-bar and armchairs to enjoy a few moments of relaxation. From there, walk along the footbridge to Fort Saint-Jean, a 17th century citadel with gardens, exhibitions and videos tracing the history of the city. Notice how its cannons point towards the city rather than away from it, a sign of the rebellious spirit of the Marseillais then and now.
Evening
The bars à vins (wine bars) are lovely places for a light meal or to eat alone. Les Buvards pairs natural and biodynamic wines with French classics like boudin no ir (black pudding) and purée. For those with a more robust appetite, Fioupelan offers modern dishes with a Provençal touch, such as daurade (sea bream) tartare on toasted bread. For dessert, go to Vanille Noire, whose salted vanilla ice cream is said to be coloured with squid ink. End the evening on a high note at the rooftop bar of theHôtel Hermès, one of the best in town. Although far from the hustle and bustle of the harbour, this tiny bar fills up quickly on summer evenings. Fans of craft cocktails should head for Bar Gaspard, on the other side of the harbour.
Day Two: ethnic delicacies, vintage shops and handicrafts
Morning
Start the day with a coffee at Deep's or Brulerie Moka, two local roasters that have livened up the city's coffee scene. Then head to a farmers' market - always a great way to experience the city as a local. Buy locally grown bread, cheese and fruit and vegetables at the Reformés market on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and at the organic market on Wednesdays in Cours Julien. Or let yourself be guided by local experts on a Culinary Backstreets food tour, which will introduce you to the city's history, culture, architecture and (of course) cuisine.
Marseille, around Noailles. Credits Francesco Bonino / Shutterstock
Lunch
Noailles is nicknamed 'the belly of Marseille' because of its central location and rich choice of edibles. Try sweet or savoury stuffed Senegalese dumplings at Pastels World, Tunisian chickpea soup(leblebi) at Chez Yassine and Mediterranean dishes inspired by market produce at Épicerie Idéal. With its street food and grocery shops, the lively Rue Longue des Capucins gives the impression of walking through an African souk. Don't miss the colourful spice shop Saladin Épices du Monde and the adjacent food stall, where street chefs cook m'semen (a kind of crepe), date-filled bradj and other Maghrebi delicacies in front of you.
Afternoon
Lively Noailles is also home to two of Marseille's oldest shops: Maison Empereur, France's oldest hardware and housewares shop, a treasure trove of some 50,000 items; and Père Blaize, which has been selling teas and infusions since 1816. Don't miss Jiji Palme D'Or, four shops whose rich assortment of Tunisian ceramics and homewares also invades the pavement. Want to learn more about the artisanal products of Marseille? Watch how savon de Marseille is made at Fer à Cheval, try your hand at mixing pastis at Distillerie de la Plaine or visit one of the city's oldest distilleries, Cristal Limiñana, to witness the production of anisette, pastis and rum.
Evening
Party like true Marseillais during theapéro, the evening happy hour that is practically a religion throughout the city. The Café de l'Abbaye, always crowded, offers views of the harbour forts and theancient Abbaye Saint-Victor from its outdoor tables. La Caravelle boasts a vintage nautical-inspired interior and the best vantage point over the Vieux-Port from its narrow balcony. Often the apéro can extend into the late evening, but if you prefer a classic sit-down dinner, Marseille's restaurant scene is brimming with young chefs. Enjoy meat dishes at Femme du Boucher, seasonal cuisine (and exceptional octopus) in a park at Sepia and Mediterranean flavours at Golda.
Marseille, around the Panier. Credits Zyankarlo / Shutterstock
Day three: street art, architecture, a football match and Michelin stars
Morning
Inspired by Marseille's hip-hop culture, street art has become an integral element of the city's aesthetics, with murals and graffiti particularly numerous in the Cours Julien and Le Panier neighbourhoods (we recommend taking a street art tour in the latter, where you can discover local graffeurs such as Nimho). Both neighbourhoods are also great shopping destinations. Le Panier, the oldest district of the city, is characterised by winding streets where you will find handicrafts such as knives from Coutellerie de Panier and santons (clay figurines) from Arterra. In Cours Julien there are many vintage and independent designer shops.
Lunch
Have lunch on Cours Julien's famous colourful staircase at Limmat, a zero-kilometre restaurant specialising in vegetarian and seafood dishes, or enjoy fresh seafood at La Boîte à Sardine, a slightly kitschy nautical-style eatery. In the mood for a picnic? Buy sandwiches at Pain Pan or Lebanese specialities at Exosud, then head for the lawn and shady trees of Parc Longchamp. Marseille's most central park stretches behind the Palais Longchamp, a majestic 19th-century white palace. Two museums line its sumptuous colonnade: the Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle, a fantastic 18th-century-style cabinet of curiosities, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts, famous for its paintings of the 1720 plague that killed half the city's inhabitants. Both are free admission.
Afternoon
Dispose of your lunch at the nearby Friche La Belle de Mai, a tobacco factory converted into a cultural centre that houses artists' studios, exhibition spaces, a bookshop, a skate park, a restaurant and a large rooftop terrace (visit their Facebook page for information on concerts, film screenings and other cultural events planned). On the other side of the city, the Unité d'Habitation at La Cité Radieuse - Le Corbusier 's utopian vision of a mixed-use residential building resembling a concrete cruise ship - is a must-see for architecture enthusiasts. While the complex is free to enter, guided tours of the flats are for a fee and can be booked at the tourist office.
Evening
Although some of the people of Marseille do not like football, everyone cheers for Olympique Marseille. And OM's home matches are as legendary as the team, with the Orange Vélodrome filling up with firecrackers, giant banners and rabid fans. Buy tickets in advance online or at the stadium on match day (the season runs from August to May). Prefer stars on the plate instead of on the field? Treat yourself to a shopping spree and dine at AM par Alexandre Mazzia, three Michelin stars. Prepare yourself for a journey of over twenty courses of smoked, spiced and roasted flavours paired with a rich array of local produce from the land and sea - for example raspberry harissa and smoked eel and dark chocolate tart. The informal atmosphere is typically Marseille.
View of Marseilleveyre. Credits Studio Empreinte / Shutterstock
Day Four - Calanques National Park
A breathtaking combination of limestone cliffs and turquoise bays, this park is best explored by boat or on foot. Take a boat trip with Bleu Evasion (8 to 12 people), or book a private launch through the Click&Boat rental platform (the cost is high for a couple, but more affordable for groups of four or more). Reach the great heights of the Croix de Marseilleveyre (a three-hour walk after taking bus 19 to Madrague de Montredon), or go down to the bay Calanque de Morgiou (two hours, plus the ride on bus 22 to Les Baumettes). In the latter case, you can combine the excursion with lunch at Bar Nautic (fresh fish) or Chez Zé (pizza and Provençal cuisine). Keep in mind that in these out-of-the-way places you will have to make a reservation and bring cash. Keep in mind that many trails are closed in July and August, when the most forest fires occur.
Lovely harbours: Les Goudes and L'Estaque
At opposite ends of Marseille are two picturesque fishing villages. At the southern end, Les Goudes is an Instagrammable destination with rocky paths, bathing coves and cabanons (beach cabins). Enjoy freshly caught fish at a table by the sea at the Grand Bar des Goudes or the Baie des Singes, a 15-minute walk away. From July to October, the Friche de l'Escalette exhibits contemporary art amidst the beautiful ruins of a 19th-century lead factory.
At the northern end, L'Éstaque evokes Marseille's industrial and artistic past: with its factories and typical Provençal light, the port once attracted painters like Cézanne. Observe the locals playing pétanque next to the port's traditional wooden barquettes, then sample typical fried snacks like chichis fregis (sweet pan cakes) and panisses (chickpea fritters) at Chez Magali. In the mood for a proper meal? The Hippocampe serves grilled fish in a secluded spot off the main street. From May to September, both villages can be reached by the RTM Ferry Boat, the cheapest way to sail on the Mediterranean.
Vallon des Auffes, Marseille. Credits Boris Stroujko / Shutterstock
On the beach
With over 40 km of coastline, Marseille offers a rich choice of beaches within the city limits. The curved bay of theAnse de la Maldormé has a pebble beach with easy access to the sea. The flat rocks of the Anse de la Fausse Monnaie are ideal for sunbathing and watching divers launch from the Corniche Kennedy. If you prefer sand, head to the Plage des Prophètes or the Plage des Catalans, the beach closest to the city centre. You can easily reach the coast by bus 83 or by bike along the renovated coastal bike path (which shares sections with the car road). Avoid swimming after heavy rain, when the sea is polluted by overflowing sewage.
Sunset
Spectacularly coloured sunsets deserve a front-row seat on the coast. Arrive early to catch one at the lively beach bar Cabanon de Paulette, where you can enjoy moules marinère and frites. The Cabane des Amis plays a mix of hip-hop, disco and techno until the early hours of the morning. Fonfon's Viaghijii serves cold meats, cheese and spritz in the charming port of Vallon des Auffes. Or do as the locals do and take a pizza to the beach: we love the ones at Eau à la Bouche, near the Plage de Malmousque.
