Llandudno is popular once more Credit: istock
I used to come to Llandudno for childhood holidays in the Seventies. Imagine Formica tables, arcade games on the pier, and guesthouse landladies in floral aprons. Recently, I returned with my own children after our original holiday plans were postponed, joining the crowd of staycationers from the North West. As we walked along the two-mile Victorian promenade, a popular meeting place for visitors to this historic North Wales resort, it became clear to me: Llandudno is back in fashion.
Since the introduction of travel restrictions, the North Wales coast has experienced a surge in post-lockdown tourism. Llandudno's pebbly North Beach is bustling with families exploring the rock pools, despite some threatening clouds over the Great Orme. Cafés along Mostyn Street are filled with diners seeking a taste of the seaside. Both the traditional seafront hotels and trendy boutique establishments are fully booked, and shops selling buckets and spades, as well as local delis, are thriving.
This is a stark contrast from the ghost-town atmosphere during lockdown when Llandudno’s Kashmiri goats became unexpected celebrities wandering through the empty streets. A local hospice even raised £50,000 selling goat-branded merchandise. However, after the Welsh Government permitted the reopening of hotels from mid-July and indoor dining from August 3, the human visitors have returned to Llandudno.
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"People are craving delicious food that they don't have to cook or clean up," says Michael Waddy, Executive Chef at the Empire Hotel and Osbourne House, as he prepares Peking duck tacos in tie-dye chef whites and a face mask. Like many other professionals in the hospitality industry, Michael has had to adapt to the changing circumstances, reducing the number of customers and introducing new safety measures. As a result, Osbourne House currently serves food only from 4-8.30pm.
"I'm tired of banana bread, and I may be the only one still drinking Corona lager at the end of my shift," jokes Michael. "Providing value and exceptional service is the way forward."
Llandudno Pier, with its elegant extension into the Irish Sea, still charms visitors today. Social-distancing signs are visible, but not everyone adheres to them, especially at the stalls selling Welsh-flag face masks. I was hit with a wave of nostalgia when I discovered the arcade games still chiming away at the end of the pier. Even my reluctant teenage children were won over by the traditional seaside fun, competing in submarine games and blasting giant water pistols in an arcade that is practically swimming in hand sanitizer.
Mostyn, a contemporary art gallery in town, recently reopened after a five-month closure. With temperature checks, one-way paths, and restricted visitor numbers, it now operates under new guidelines. The Pop-art exhibition by Austrian artist Kiki Kogelnik injects color into the post-lockdown gloom that hangs over art venues and reminds us of the changing times.
"Life has changed, but artists continue to capture the essence of our society," says gallery director, Alfredo Cramerotti. "We're observing subtle changes in artwork that reflect our experiences during lockdown, while also reassessing our behaviors in public spaces as curators."
Llandudno effortlessly combines tradition with contemporary charm, but it truly excels at timeless grandeur. The afternoon tea at St George's Hotel might be slightly different these days, with waiters wearing visors and the inclusion of contact tracing details, but the scones are still warm and the Welsh fruit loaf, known as bara brith, remains delightfully moist.
Sipping Earl Grey while watching families stroll along the promenade through the window is deeply reassuring. "Llandudno has an eternal appeal," remarks Nathan Cousins, the sales and marketing director. "It has always been a popular resort for those seeking old-fashioned but comforting activities like taking a leisurely seaside stroll and enjoying fresh sea air."
Some smaller seafront hotels are still closed, and traditional attractions like the funicular Great Orme Tramway are yet to reopen. However, the 100+ cafés and restaurants in town participating in the Government's Eat Out to Help Out scheme are bustling, especially Dylan's, which is booked solid three weeks in advance from Monday to Wednesday.
